July 27, 2018
If you have an interest in how culinary favorites vary by country and region, you may have noticed that each country has flavors they prefer over others. Ketchup seems to be the national favorite of America, while curry is notoriously prominent in Indian cuisine. Likewise, while elderberry and rhubarb recipes exist in both North America and Europe, both of these niche flavours are more popular in the UK.
You may have heard about elderberry in recent years due to its popularity as a remedy for colds and flu. Though native to both North America and Europe, its use as a food and flavoring in more mainstream in Europe. Recipes for syrups, cordials, pies, cakes, and custard dishes including elderberry abound. The syrup is popular in mixed drink cocktails like the Elderberry Kir Royale and included in savory dishes by drizzling it on venison, pork, or beef. There are also recipes for elderberry vinegar and elderberry gin, made by steeping the berries in one liquid or the other, until it absorbs the essence of the berry.
Elderberry is a shrub or small tree, producing berries that ripen in the fall. The leaves, stems, and bark of the plant contain compounds that degrade into cyanide, so never consume anything but the berries. Unripe, the small, tart fruit is semi-poisonous; but when ripened and cooked down into sauces, jams, or syrups with added sugar, its full flavor shines forth.
Many a countryside American has made spring-time rhubarb pie, but it’s mostly a once-per-year treat. In Europe, it’s such a favorite that an entire railway line was dedicated to bringing it from Yorkshire to London. A nine square mile piece of Yorkshire known as “The Rhubarb Triangle” has the perfect soil and climate for growing rhubarb, and still supplies much of the surrounding countryside.
There are two rhubarb seasons in Britain, because the UK loves cooking with rhubarb so much that they found a way to grow it even sooner than it usually shoots up. As a member of the dock family, rhubarb typically flourishes from April to September, like most sensible plants. But if it is grown in warm, dark sheds, it’ll sprout between Christmas and Easter—a method known as “forcing”.
Rhubarb leaves are toxic, so it’s often sold as just a bundle of stems. It’s pretty sour, so it’s often mixed with sugar to make it palatable. Its delicate pink color makes it an excellent addition to desserts in the form of syrup, chutney, or puree. It has a strong flavor that is hard to overpower, so it is often mixed with cinnamon, cardamom, or cloves.
What are your favorite seasonal flavors?